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dginther
USA
27 Posts |
 Posted - 12/29/2008 : 11:23:26
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Thanks, Andy.
Here is a link to the centaur filter (carbon) - with an "oxygen chamber":
http://aquascience.3dcartstores.com/9x48-Oxygen-Centaur-Carbon-Filter-with-Fleck-5600SE-Automatic-BackwashControl-Contains-all-media-fill-funnel-cap-and-by-pass_p_282.html
In regard to coliform / bacteria - I have no idea what the actual break down is. Our test simply included a volume of coliform - I may choose to do some additional testing to see if we have fecal coliform. I believe that sulfur reducing bacteria will show in a coliform test - and all of the wells in the area seem to have that typical smell that indicates these bacteria are present.
I just can't get myself to buy into a liquid chlorinator. Absolutely every single liquid chlorinator owner that I've talked to has nothing but negative things to say about their experience. Gary (and Gary's website) - also note that he doesn't like to use them either.
I'm really considering two possible solutions at this point:
1) pellet (erosion) chlorinator -> contact tank -> centaur carbon filter -> Water softener -> reverse osmosis -> UV light. (Note, Gary has a pellet chlorination unit on a mixing tank that runs about the same as a large contact tank + in-line pellet chlorinator - the advantage is less space)
2) Centaur carbon filter w/ oxygen chamber -> water softener -> reverse osmosis -> UV light
Solution #2 would require me to manually cycle the carbon filter every so often on backwash with a chlorine solution to make sure that bacteria don't setup in the filter. |
Edited by - dginther on 12/29/2008 12:26:23 |
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Andy CWS-I
81 Posts |
Posted - 12/29/2008 : 18:03:29
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You're welcome.
One thing I noticed was that you had your UV follow the RO. Although that is possible, it must follow one of two choices. A very large RO, enough to service the whole house (which is not common and rarely recommended in your cases) with a large retention tank and repressurization pump. Or a drinking water RO and a small UV to service that water only.
I recommend reversing the RO and UV. If you are serious about UV, I suggest a Class-A system. They are more expensive but are better designed to assure the user of safe water. Class -B systems could also be used as you intend to handle odor by chlorination, which also acts as a sanitizer/disinfectant and the B system would considered supplemental.
We ahve many chlorination/dechloriantion systems that work extremely well. How they are set up can make all the differnce in the world. Depending on the application, sometimes H202 is preferred. I oftenr recommend a sulfur system that backwashes with H202 and provides excellent, odor free water.
I am not sure about a manual backwashing carbon filter. How is that set up? Becareful when using air to handle hydrogen sulfide. Air contact time is very important; if it is too little then the carbon bed needs to work harder and results in a shorter life span. I am not familiar with that particular brand. The price is cheap, hope it doesn't match in quality.
Well, I’m sure you’ll make a good choice.
Andy Christensen, CWS-II
Going cheap can be very costly. |
Edited by - Andy CWS-I on 12/29/2008 18:10:47 |
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dginther
USA
27 Posts |
Posted - 12/30/2008 : 09:49:11
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Like everyone, we're on a budget. We're not considering whole-house RO, mainly due to cost and added complexity (large tank, multiple switches, and additional pump). I have a local bid for whole house RO (around $11k) - and an installer that told me I'd only need to change the membrane and filters every 3 years or more - so he was immediately ignored.
As you've stated - the plan is " a drinking water RO and a small UV to service that water only"
I say place the UV after the RO as thats where the water is the cleanest... I think you're suggesting that I put it before the RO to prevent any bacteria from setting up shop in the RO unit itself? The downside I see is that any remaining hardness might scratch up the UV system - but we're talking very low volume, so perhaps it doesn't matter...
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Andy CWS-I
81 Posts |
Posted - 12/30/2008 : 13:55:19
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I was thinking that you were going whole house on the UV. So if the UV is for drinking only, then after is the better choice. Bulbs should still be replced once a year. I think there are Class-A systems as low as 1.5 gallon per minute.
here is one RO that is designed for virus, protoza and bacteria removal without UV for a certified 2000 gallons. (NSF P-231)
A whole house RO can be a real bothersome and problematic approach. RO water can be aggressive, so some plumbing and fixture may suffer.
Learning a lot, I suppose. That's good. You'll make a good choice, I'm sure. Get the right equipment and make sure who you are dealing with can be there when yu need them.
Andy Christensen, CWS-II
Going cheap can be very costly. |
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cow_rancher
USA
1111 Posts |
Posted - 12/31/2008 : 11:43:09
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quote:
Originally posted by Andy CWS-I
RO water can be aggressive, so some plumbing and fixture may suffer.
So will RO water pull the copper out of the pipes?
Rancher |
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dginther
USA
27 Posts |
Posted - 12/31/2008 : 12:29:44
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He's saying that desalinated reverse osmosis water can be corrosive. RO water will have low hardness, low alkalinity, and may have a low PH.
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New well - water quality help
